Here is a successful and very enjoyable expression that offers immediate appeal. The Poggio San Polo 2014 Brunello di Montalcino (with 20,000 bottles made) opens to bright fruit, cherry and dark plum. The wine sees a more contemporary winemaking philosophy with two years of aging in 500-liter French tonneaux (with medium toast) that are both new and used. It sees another six months of bottle aging before its commercial release. These winemaking methods add much-needed volume and structure to the mouthfeel.

Aromas of iodine and dried wood thread through clear red-berry notes, leading to a palate that has a fullish core of quite open-knit, ripe cherries. Drink or hold.

Aromas of dark-skinned fruit, wild herb, forest floor and fragrant blue flower shape the nose. Linear and racy, the elegantly focused palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, licorice and tobacco while fine-grained tannins and firm acidity provide balance and support. Drink 2021–2029. KERIN O’KEEFE

A big red, boasting cherry, plum, licorice and loam flavors. This is rich, with a touch of oak spice and well-integrated tannins. Best from 2021 through 2030.